For Summer 2018, Alexis Mabille wanted my evening collection to feel relaxed! The designer wanted to reprise his codes and his volumes with the offhanded allure of a men’s suit. The notion of comfort is present, even when it’s not expected, through light, graceful yet structured materials that cascade down the body. Inspiration stems from the essentials: the trench, the shirt, the tank top, the flounced beach cover-up, college stripes — and, of course, my signature bowtie! All of these are worked with delicacy and luxury, with lace inserts or applications, striped gazar flounces but with a menswear spirit, and colorful “spot” embroidery.
Alexis Mabille very drawn to the contemporary idea of a woman of character who just wants to throw on a dress in a flash, but once dressed she looks like a queen. It’s the kind of allure typical of Lisa Fonssagrives in portraits by Irving Penn, Katharine Hepburn, a Jacques Henri Lartigue muse wearing a ruffled dress or, closer to our time, sexy and romantic eccentrics like Chloé Sévigny and Soko. A woman of many faces, who is active and chic. Elegance is her watchword: she wants to be beautiful, show herself to her best advantage and appeal to men — but without baring it all!
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